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Mr & Mrs. Asiaholics

Stalking a Thai celebrity

After years of admiring this Thai TV star, the moment for our paths to cross had finally arrived. I flew thousands of miles just to meet her and I was not disappointed. In person, this Thai star is a charmer…even when asleep! Sadly, she stayed asleep during the entire duration of my visit.

Meet the object of my affection, Lin Ping, the bear that put Thailand in the throes of panda-monium.

Born via artificial insemination in the Chiang Mai Zoo to parents, Lin Hui and Chuang Chuang, her birth was celebrated as a milestone in Thailand. Lin Ping has own special air-conditioned section in the zoo (where you pay an extra hundred baht to visit, by the way) and she is definitely treated like a star. Paparazzis, beware. They’ll cover the flash on your camera when you come for a visit.

My first encounter with Lin Ping started in Bangkok years ago while I was channel surfing in a guesthouse in Silom. In my futile attempt to look for an English cable channel, I stumbled on the Panda Channel. Yes, a 24/7 channel dedicated to all things Lin Ping. While I initially found the whole idea preposterous, I eventually became a convert.

My wife wondered why I was laughing so hard in front of the TV. That was when a baby Lin Ping fell off a tree and landed on her behind. Even when my vacation ended, I discovered that the Panda Channel has a live streaming video on the web so I would occasionally check the site to check out what my favorite panda was up to.

Though I didn’t get to see Lin Ping awake in person (or should I say, in panda), I was still in awe of this adorable star. You still have two years to catch Lin Ping at the Chiang Mai Zoo before she is returned to China. Or if you want to check her antics online, visit http://linping.truelife.com.

Feline frenzy

We thought we’d died and gone to cat heaven when we checked into the Banilah boutique guesthouse in Chiang Mai. The cat-loving owner made every effort to incorporate her beloved felines, live and otherwise, in the guesthouse lobby. Guests can entertain themselves by counting the many cats that inhabit the place. Be extra careful when using their computer or photocopy machine as you might wake the napping cats. Look closer and you’ll find cat magnets on the refrigerator and cat paintings on the doors —among the innumerable feline knick knacks.

Banilah 11 Sotesueksa Road, Changphuek, Muang, Chiang Mai, Thailand www.banilah.com

EVER SEEN AN ELEPHANT PAINT?

A visit to the Maesa Elephant Camp in Chiang Mai was an opportunity for a more personal encounter with the gentle giants. For a very reasonable entrance fee, we were able to hand feed elephants and be entertained by these creatures as they threw darts, dunked basketballs, kicked footballs and painted just a few meters from where we were seated. Good thing we grabbed front row seats so we had the best view.

This was a show worth documenting on video so we took a quick video of an elephant working on its self portrait. The mahout (elephant driver/trainer) would merely be in charge of dipping the paintb

rush in paint but the elephants did the rest of the work themselves. Each one had a different specialty—while others worked on single shade self portraits, others painted landscapes bursting with colour.

Cereal killer

Most visitors to Singapore have hainanese chicken on their list of must-try dishes. However, for us, a trip to the Lion City is incomplete without multiple orders of cereal crayfish.

Contrary to its name, crayfish are actually a cross between a prawn and a lobster in terms of size, flavor and price (read: expensive). We first tried this ubiquitous Singaporean wonder in No Signboard seafood restaurant and we’ve been hooked ever since.

On its own, the crayfish is already deliciously sweet and addictive but when coated in an oat mixture and deep fried, the dish is elevated to a whole new level of scrumptiousness. Our mouth waters even at the thought.

When in Singapore, don’t pass up on this dish . It’s worth every Singaporean dollar lah.

For No Signboard branches in Singapore check outwww.nosignboardseafood.com

CentralWorld: Ode to a giant

As one of the largest malls in the planet, CentralWorld Bangkok provides visitors with hundreds of options to relax. Whether it’s to escape the notorious Bangkok heat or to do some serious damage to your wallet, this is the place to go.

It wasn’t love at first sight with this behemoth of a mall. In terms of layout, CentralWorld dizzying and still takes getting used to despite repeated trips. Through the years though we’ve grown to appreciate its relaxing, youthful vibe and its not too hi-so tenant mix.

Among our favorite pastimes here include scouring the giant B2S bookstore for funky notebooks and rare CDs while Zen department store is our go-to place for fashion forward finds. The impressive Central Food Hall is a destination in itself as it offers a wide assortment of grocery items from around the world as well as a great DIY salad bar. For a healthy and convenient meal, put together a fresh salad here with your choice of ingredients and top with their excellent pumpkin salad dressing. For a heartier meal, the stellar 3-course lunch set at Bar Italia by Gie Gie is a steal. To cap off your meal, try homegrown brand iberry’s unique ice cream flavors like Paradise Tea (an ice-cream version of cha yen, the Thai iced tea) or Horlick’s. Obviously, we’ve spent an inordinate amount of time here.

Last year it was quite painful to see our old friend going through rough times. News coverages featured images of the mall going up in flames during the Red Shirt riots. Yikes. Our favorite Bangkok haunt would never be the same again, or so we thought.

Thankfully, on a recent trip to the Big Mango, we’ve seen CentralWorld literally rise from the ashes— its aisles brimming with happy shoppers once again. To date, the only missing piece in the renovation is that of Zen department store. Once that’s done, a return visit is definitely in store.

CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Road, Bangkok, Thailand

Banteay Srei: Beauty in the details

Cambodia truly lives up to its tourism slogan as a “Kingdom of Wonder” with its many well-preserved historical sites from the heyday of the mighty Khmer empire. Though nowhere near the size and majesty of Angkor Wat, the Banteay Srei temple has a distinct charm all its own.

Banteay Srei means “Citadel of Women” in Khmer and was built in honor of the Hindu god Shiva.

Although Banteay Srei was one of the last Angkorian temples we visited, it was also one of the most unique since it was constructed using predominantly red sandstone so even from afar, we could appreciate the temples’ pinkish hue. Considered by many as having the most intricate carvings among all the Angkorian temples, beautifully detailed apsaras or female deities can be found all over the temple.

It takes approximately an hour to get to this UNESCO World Heritage site from Siem Reap but it’s well worth the trip to see for yourself this “jewel in Khmer art”.

Banteay Srei, north of Angkor, Cambodia

Crappuccino

There’s been a lot of buzz for weasel coffee among coffee connoisseurs. Depending on whether the coffee is from Vietnam, Indonesia or the Philippines, these can be referred to as ca phe chon, kopi luwak or kape alamid, respectively.

Traditionally, weasel coffee only differs from regular coffee in that the coffee beans go through a uniquely different process. They are partially digested and naturally “processed” in the digestive tract of palm civet cats. Eventually, these beans are then (how do I say this delicately?) pooped out by the civets and harvested. After washing, they are then ready for roasting. The result is a gourmet coffee that aficionados are willing to spend a fortune on. Supposedly, the trip down the animal’s digestive tract exposes the beans to all sorts of enzymes which results in a wonderful coffee taste.

As a coffee freak, I’ve always wanted to try a cup of crappuccino and on a recent trip to Vietnam, I finally had my chance. As a personal rule of thumb when ingesting strange things, I always make a beeline for the most reputable place. I figure that if the experience is not one to write home about, at least I would have been assured that my meal or drink was prepared with optimum hygiene.

Trung Nguyen is the Vietnamese Starbucks and they have several well appointed coffee shops all over Vietnam. What better place to have a cup of caphe chon? Upon asking for my weasel coffee, Trung Nguyen’s gold foil-wrapped Legendee product is pointed out to me.

My weasel coffee arrives with a single cup filter and it’s a revelation. This was, by far, the best cup of joe I’ve had in my life! It was luxuriously thick, dark and rich. Despite its intensely strong coffee flavor, it went down remarkably smooth. No acidic or bitter aftertaste here. The coffee itself had hints of dark chocolate which was a pleasant surprise. I savored every last drop of it.

Needless to say, my first stop after finishing my cup was the Trung Nguyen shop where I proceeded to purchase a pack of Legendee coffee to take home.

Upon further research, I found out that Trung Nguyen’s Legendee coffee did not actually pass through a civet cat’s digestive tract. Instead, it was treated with natural enzymes to simulate the same effect. That was a bit of a letdown as it meant that technically speaking, I had not really had a cup of crappuccino. On the other hand, if that cup is a simulation of what weasel coffee tastes like then I am definitely looking forward to my first real cup of crappuccino.

The Ruins: Taj Mahal of the Philippines

Negros island is known as the “Sugarbowl of the Philippines” due to its vast tracts of sugar plantations. Nestled within these verdant fields is a testament to the love of a sugar baron for his deceased wife. Don Mariano Lacson built a mansion of Italian architecture in the 1900’s in remembrance of Maria Braga. Because of this, the Ruins earned the moniker—Taj Mahal of Negros.

We’ve been to The Ruins more than once and each time, we are still captivated. Visitors to the Ruins will find a massive edifice surrounded by a well manicured garden and a fountain. In its heyday, the mansion was said to have contained memorabilia and china purchased by the owners in their extensive European and Asian travels. Although these items are not on display, the structure in itself is a sight to behold.

A victim of war, the mansion was set on fire by Filipino guerrillas in their attempts to prevent invading Japanese troops from using it as a garrison. While the roof and other wooden structures in the house gave way, the concrete portions survive to this day despite the three day blaze.

It’s true that the Ruins is only a shadow of its former self but entering the mansion is like stepping into the past to relive the opulent lifestyle of the sugar barons. We never forget to bring a camera along and take so many photos of this picturesque gem.

Catching the sun set here and staying on until early evening is a must as the house lights bring new life to this well preserved relic.

The Ruins, Talisay City, Negros Occidental, Philippines

Fear Factor Cambodian style

It started with a dare. A couple we were travelling with in Phnom Penh dared us to try some deep fried tarantula, supposedly a tasty Cambodian delicacy. Cambodians stopped considering tarantulas as bugs and started eating them as food during the Khmer Rouge regime when food became scarce. By the time the bloody regime was over, these black hairy creatures had already cemented their position as everyday fare.

We called our friends on their dare and dropped by Romdeng restaurant, a fine-dining establishment that specializes in Khmer cuisine like fish amokand the like. Romdeng is run by the Mith Samlanh Friends NGO, an organization that trains street youth for an eventual career in the hospitality industry. We figured this would be a good place to enjoy our deep fried tarantulas and at least get some good karma coming our way.

Our tarantulas arrived on an immaculately white plate and they were black, hairy and fried to a crisp. Obviously no effort was taken to conceal what they were as they were presented to us whole and in all their eight-legged glory. This must be what being a contestant on Fear Factor feels like. Thank goodness these things were at least cooked. Stifling the beginnings of a cringe, we partially closed our eyes and simultaneously popped tarantula legs into our mouths (hey there’s a lot of those to go around!) Surprisingly, they were tasty and we felt like we were crunching our way through some soft shell crabs or crablets. What really made the dish sing, however, was the accompanying lime dipping sauce redolent with crushed Kampot black pepper. Who would have thought an arachnid could taste so good? Pass the Angkor beer please.

Romdeng Restaurant, 74 Street 174, Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Tel. 095-219565

Colors of Hoi An

Hoi An is often touted as Vietnam’s most charming town. Having visited this UNESCO World Heritage site in Central Vietnam, we certainly agree with that moniker. Best navigated on foot or via bicycle, this well-preserved 15^th to 19^th century trading port is a photographer’s dream. You’ll find Chinese temples and Japanese pagodas alongside more traditional Vietnamese structures. This gem of a town is worth exploring both in the morning and at night. It is in the mornings that you can best appreciate the colorful boats that are reminiscent of the town’s trading port heritage. Meanwhile, in the evenings, numerous brightly colored lanterns are lit up and noisy motorbikes are no longer allowed to roam.

For shopaholics, browse through the numerous tailoring shops and have them customize something for you— for a steal. Custom made shoes and bags are popular souvenirs here as well. Oh and it helps that they can usually complete the order in less than 24 hours!

Best time to visit Hoi An is during their Full Moon Festival which happens once a month. During this festival, you’ll find the locals wearing traditional garb and celebrating the town’s art and culture through poetry recitals and traditional opera performances right on the street.

Khao Soi: Heaven in a bowl

Now craving for khao soi, a curry noodle dish served with pickled vegetables and a slice of lime. The squeeze of lime brightens up the rich and aromatic coconut curry broth. Choose khao soi with chicken or with a mix of pork and beef. Each steaming bowl showcases two textures of the same noodle—soft noodles soaked in the broth and a crunchy fried noodle topping.

Lam Duan in Chiang Mai serves up this addictive dish best and for a ridiculously cheap price too. Don’t forget to order their refreshing tamarind juice to go with this. Worth coming back for — over and over again.

Khao Soy Lam Duan Fhaham, Moo 3 Super Highway, Chiang Mai, Thailand. Tel: 053-212798